I’ll always remember the day in December 2023 that my rabbi said he thought I should go to Israel. I told him he was crazy. Just two months prior, Israel had been attacked by Hamas, and I thought there was zero chance I’d be going anytime soon. But, a few months later, he offered again, and my answer changed. I said yes, but insisted that my parents would never allow it. After many long conversations, we decided that during the Stav (fall) 2024 semester, I would attend Alexander Muss High School in Israel. This decision changed my life.
The culture shock began the moment I stepped on the plane. I was greeted by El/Al staff in a language I barely knew, bound for a country I had only dreamed of visiting. Over the next few months, I met some of the closest friends of my life, and got to live with them for months. Below are a few of my favorite places and experiences from my time at Alexander Muss.
The Kotel
The Kotel—the Western Wall—is one of the holiest places for the Jewish people. It’s the last accessible part of the ancient Temple Mount. I wrote more about the history of the Kotel in Gender Norms at the Western Wall, but the reason I love the Kotel so much is how deeply it connected me to over 3000 years of Jewish history. Though I don’t believe in God, praying at the Kotel was the closest I’ve ever felt to Judaism. During the fall program, the students spent Yom Kippur in Jerusalem and broke our fast at the Kotel, an unforgettable experience.
King Hezekiah’s Tunnel
King Hezekiah ruled Judah around 700 BCE. When the Assyrian Empire threatened Jerusalem, he anticipated a loss of water access and ordered the construction of a 500-meter water tunnel diverting water from the Gihon Spring to the Pool of Siloam. The tunnel allowed the Jews to survive the siege. At Alexander Muss, we walked through the tunnel. We took part in the tradition to sing, and chose “HaTikvah”—the Israeli National Anthem. Singing the words of those praying to return to the holy land, while underground in a place that preserved Jewish life, was one of the most powerful parts of my trip.
Ein Gedi
Despite the strong sulfur smell, Ein Gedi is one of Israel’s most unbelievable regions. It is the home of Masada and the southern stretch of the Yam HaMelach—the Dead Sea. Masada, similar to King Hezekiah’s tunnel, was a tactic to protect Jewish life; perched high on a plateau, which provided both defense and a sense of resilience. More of the history is available in The Zealots’ Defiance. The hike up the snake path at 4 in the morning was not fun, but I loved watching the sunrise and hearing about the history while actually there. As for the Dead Sea, many complain about the burning, but I did not deal with such discomfort—and even if I had, the fun would have outweighed it. Between lathering my friends in mud and making a “Dead Sea train,” this stop turned into one of the best.
Yam L’Yam
The Sea to Sea—Yam L’Yam—hike is one of the most famous in Israel. Typically, hikers begin at the Mediterranean Sea, travel North toward the Lebanese border, and South to the Kinneret—Sea of Galilee. Due to the conflict in northern Israel, our plan was to drive part of the way on the first day and stay in line with Haifa. Traffic from Akko to Haifa added three extra hours to the drive, and the weather made it unsafe to hike, so we ended up spending the day at a national park before reaching the campsite.
The following days were more intense: we hiked nine kilometers to Mount Tabor, then climbed it, and ate lunch at the summit. That afternoon, we trekked an alleged fifteen kilometers—though I’m convinced it was longer—to the next site. The next day, we hiked 18km and arrived at the campsite, Kinneret in sight, before needing to evacuate. While I was very tired my feet were blistered, and technically we didn’t start or end at a Yam, Yam L’Yam allowed me to connect with my peers in ways I hadn’t before. About a month into the trip, so this was when we truly became a kehillah—community.
High Holy Days
I’ve always loved the High Holy Days, and experiencing them in Israel made them even more meaningful. For Rosh HaShanah, the Jewish New Year, I joined my friend at her family’s kibbutz before heading to Tel Aviv, which was a lot of fun. Then, for Yom Kippur, we went to Jerusalem, where we shul-hopped. After a great nap, we went to the Kotel to break our fast. It was honestly so surreal being hungry, praying, and waiting for food with some Haredi boys, breaking my fast, and then being yelled at by this guy saying it wasn’t time to eat yet, and we wasted our fast. I spent Sukkot in Tel Aviv with my friend, and while I didn’t really celebrate, it was a really fun day exploring and almost getting stuck in Tel Aviv. My favorite was Simchat Torah, celebrated once again in Jerusalem. This was the first time I truly enjoyed an Orthodox service—there was a Torah for the women to dance with, and the sense of joy and community of Israel was unforgettable.
Hod HaSharon
Hod HaSharon is the town where Alexander Muss is located, and quickly became one of my favorites. Between exploring Ramatayim Road and all of the on-campus activities, Hod HaSharon joined the list of my top places in Israel. I loved Friday nights spent on campus, where we’d do Kabbalat Shabbat with everyone. We would also watch “Shabbos Movies,” which is when anyone who keeps Shabbat sits on one bed and those who don’t watch a movie on a bed across from them and describe it to those who keep Shabbat. Due to the food in the cheder ochel being less than appetizing, we’d often look at the food, look at each other, and decide to order food instead. I’ll always miss late-night Soft Cookies and endless couples questions, keeping us entertained right until rooms-in.
Hebrew
Lastly, of course, I had to learn the language. I knew if I tried, I could learn a lot of Hebrew, and for that to happen, I needed to use it and, of course, make mistakes. I was in the second level of Hebrew class, which meant I knew the alphabet, in my case, the script, and knew a few words and phrases. While I used a lot less Hebrew than I should’ve, I did improve my knowledge and can understand it pretty well. As for speaking, that’s not my strong suit. I have conversations with my friends in Hebrew, and usually I’m making up alternatives like “chalav lo cham,” literally meaning milk not hot. While that phrase was first used by a friend of mine, I have made similar mistakes. Learning a language without vowels is very hard, hence why my reading and writing skills resemble those of a kindergartner. That being said, I’m happy to have learned what I did and to be consistently learning more.
Overall, Muss was a truly life-changing experience. I would recommend it to any Jewish high schooler, especially those who have not yet been to Israel. Being able to take American classes—especially APs—in English was very helpful for my transition back to school in the States. Israel Studies is most definitely the most effective class I’ve ever taken. I love the experience and everyone I met along the way. Hod HaSharon will always be my second home.